Happy Trails

A day in the life of, a life in the life of me.

Friday, September 14, 2007

About turn...

3 Days in Trujillo was plenty. The first day we walked, the second, we took a tour. In the morning to Huacas del Sol y de la Lunas (which is two sites), and the afternoon to Chan Chan. Huacas del Sol y de la Luna made by the Moche people, a pre-inca civilisation who ruled the area from 200BC to AD850.





At Huaca del Luna, excavation of the site was in full flow, revelling bright colours and details of decorative art work. We entered through the north east corner, directly into where the human sacrifices were made. The victims were prisoners of war, offered to the Gods in hope of rain and fertility. The Moche tortured, before forcing cacti hallucinogenics on them to help the victims in their preparation for having their throat cut. The body was then thrown over a high wall, with the rest of the bodies, left to decompose and be eaten by vultures at the base of the mountain, next to the settlement.

From the roof top there´s a great view of the Huaca del Sol, the largest pre-Colombian structure in Peru. Once a pyramid, is now reduced to 2/3 its original size due to the weather.





The rest of the afternoon continued with our tour guide that spat out information faster than a machine gun, constantly hurrying us along to the next place, in broken English and a monotone rehearsed speech. Asking questions was received with a look like you were trying to start a fight. Needless to say, we didn´t learn that much from her, but thankfully, there were enough boards offering information, to keep us walking around what was home to the Chimu civilisation.




The ruins named Chan Chan was their capital and is the largest adobe city in the world. At their height this housed 60,000 Chimus. Lasting Ad850 to 1470, they were finally defeated by the Incas.





It seems that not just here around Trujillo, but all over Peru, that what has been re-discovered of these ruins, is just the tip of the iceberg, as steep and as high as the mountains that overlook this country.





Our tour ended with a brief stop at the seaside town of Huanchaco. I was inspired to stay the night there, until the sunset and the cold breeze came in strong.

So our last day there, I came down with food poisoning, sat around waiting for our bus, hoping this bug would leave me alone, it definitely felt like time to go.

We have arrived in a warm climate with blue skies, a nice beach, Pelicans gliding above the ocean and Vultures everywhere!




Up until this point we were planning n heading north again onto Ecuador, but after consulting the bible of the road, being the lonely planet, we realised we hadn´t given real consideration to the weather. With our new knowledge, we´re going to change direction, a 45 degree angle to the east and head inland to the jungles and the Amazon river!

Monday, September 10, 2007

Six months later!




Summer at home. Summer?!!! It pissed down pretty much the whole time I was there. One of the worst England has seen for maybe 250 years. And the one I decided to go home for. It didn´t stop me enjoying it for the most part and getting out to a few obligatory festivals, summer´s not summer without them. Sunrise was a great one to start the season off with, and finished with Beautiful Days, the wettest festival I´ve yet to experience, nothing that a few ciders and a lively band can´t improve. Anyway, all that has passed way now, to my next trip, the place where Paddington Bear himself is from.... Peru!



I arrived after 14 hours of flight. Before which Matt drove me to Gatwick in the middle of the night, taking about 4 hours, then after arriving here I waited for my friend Rach for 6 hours in the airport. Oh the joys of travel can leave you exhausted before you´ve even seen anything.



Lima is large and diverse, capturing affluence and poverty, fresh sea breeze of the Pacific and thick spluttering pollution. This is the city the Spaniards founded on the shore of the dessert in 1535.




Some of the first things I notice, Volkswagen's are everywhere, driven down the streets by all ages. The streets are lined with buildings also reflecting a colourful retro style, with massive cacti out front.



Another common sighting here is the amount of couples, young to elderly, openly demonstrating their love. In parks holding hands, leaning heads on shoulders, or on cliff tops embracing.



But it´s not all easy going. Yesterday we left the capital heading north. As our bus weaved its way out of the city we observed what masses of people call their home. In the distance was a small mountain scattered with houses clutching to the side for dear life, lacking water and electricity. This scene was repeated for miles as we left the city behind us.



After a little snooze I woke, looked out the window to find the complete opposite to what I saw before I slept. What was chockablock with people, cars, homes, noise and exhaust fumes was now replaced with nothing but sand dunes. Quite a capturing view when there´s not really much to focus on, and reminded me of Mars!


The 9 hours on the top deck of our luxury bus passed quickly and comfortably, putting the National Express to shame. We drove in and out of colourful towns and cities dotted through the dessert, dogs barking, children playing. Day turned to night, shadows grew longer, the sky went bright red and the landscape turned more mountainous.





This morning we awoke in Trujillo a colonial city, a real treat for anyone who likes to take photos, if you feel relaxed enough to take your camera out that is. We have been warned so many times by locals to be careful of thieves, it can really make you feel uncomfortable, but that aside, it´s been a great day of walking and taking photos. Tomorrow we´ll do the same until we get round to seeing the pyramids, ruins and beaches.




Have you ever seen a cool Lada?


If only Ladas looked like this when I was at school, I might not have been embarrassed by ours! Possibly.